CHILE - Whirlwind tour of Santiago, Viña del Mar, and Valparaíso

Hey everyone! So last I wrote, I had managed to survive my first crazy week of exams and history overload and was jetting...or rather bussing... off on a weekend adventure to Chile. Now that time is getting rather short here in Argentina we are all trying to take advantage of every opportunity that we have to explore and travel before we have to come back. So, along with Whitney, Deven, and Eric (or as we began calling ourselves 3BP - two blondes, a black man, and a polish man) I boarded the bus to Santiago. The drive there is a rather short one considering the others I've been on and when we went through customs at 3am we were already more than halfway there. Now when we unloaded the bus at 6:30am in the Santiago bus terminal, the first thought on my mind was "gosh its cold"! This was quickly followed by "what the heck were we thinking?"

We had all decided to take the bus to Santiago because we wanted to spend the day exploring the city. What we hadn't really thought about was that when we got there at 6:30am nothing would be open and we would be left in the bus terminal with no real idea of where we were going or what we were doing, and with all our stuff because we were planning to head to Viña (and more importantly our hostel) later in the afternoon. So, we sat in the bus terminal until about 8:30am making a plan for the day. First, we found an ATM to get money we would need for the weekend. Although Chile also uses 'pesos' as their form of currency, they are a completely different type than that of Argentina. Next, we found a tourist information station where we could get a map of the city and suggestions of places to visit. Finally, we bought bus tickets to Viña del Mar for later in the evening (since that was where we were actually staying for the weekend). With a slightly better plan outlined, we set off in a taxi for the center of the city. Lucky for us, the large plaza where we told the cab driver to take us was also next to a pedestrian street with lots of shops and cafés for breakfast. As we walked down the street we saw a Burger King, and a Pizza Hut! Chile has a much stronger western influence where Argentina has more of a European influence. Still in search of a place that had both food and coffee, we rounded a corner and came face to face with a Dunkin' Donuts!!! Being tired, hungry, and excited to see something familiar, we marched right through the doors. After coffee, donuts, and omelet wraps all around we all felt much better and ready for a day of exploring. Eric was the master planner of this day and the main force behind coming to Santiago, so we let him take the lead and headed out the doors towards Cerro Santa Lucia which was just a few short blocks away. Walking down the streets, talking in English and taking photos of all the cool buildings, we must have looked like the stereotypical tourists, but none of us cared. We were on vacation and it felt great to let our hair down and relax for the first time in a long while. Especially with some of our class anxiety out of the way we were all feeling a little more relaxed about life.

We found Cerro Santa Lucia without issue seeing as its a giant hill/castle in the center of town and began walking up the long road to the top. It was free to enter, so we spent a good few hours just exploring. There was a giant fountain part-way up where we stopped to take pictures and then after a LONG and STEEP set of stairs we found ourselves at the very top in a small watchtower of sorts overlooking the entire city. It was absolutely beautiful! And so cool to see this whole city all around. It really reminded me of being on the acropolis in Athens, Greece and looking around at the modern city below. After taking in the view we headed part-way back down to just sit on some benches and talk for a bit. It was so nice not to have to hurry or feel like we were in a rush. For the first time in a long time we just sat and enjoyed. Once we'd gained back some energy we headed back into the city and across a main street to an artisan market across the street. There were a TON of stalls with all kinds of beautiful crafts and gifts. I could've spent HOURS there and still not been ready to leave. However our time was getting short, so we headed back out to walk around a bit more. With Eric's directions we shortly found ourselves in front of the main government building and sat just looking at the building and plaza for a bit. Sitting on a wall looking towards the imposing looking building we decided to play a game with the passersby. Each time someone passed one of us had to guess what their job was. It was a ton of fun and playing in English we definitely got some weird looks, but it was entertaining to try and guess anything about these people's lives. After we'd had enough time to rest (remember we were all carrying heavy backpacks for the weekend) we headed back to the main plaza to look around at the art there before hailing a cab back to the bus terminal. That cab ride was one of the first times I have felt seriously uncomfortable or scared in a car since I've been out of the country. Drivers hardly ever pay attention to lights or lane lines at night in Mendoza, but driving through downtown Santiago in afternoon rush hour this driver was swerving all over the place in and out of lanes, around cars, through stop lights, and cursing when the cars ahead of him didn't drive as expected... Finally we arrived at the terminal in one piece and were all thankful to get out of the car. There wasn't much time until our bus headed out, so we bought water for the ride and sat on the floor talking about the day. The second we had boarded the bus everyone was out! We were all so tired from the complete lack of sleep the night before and from walking around the city all day that the entire 2 and 1/2 hours passed in a flash and when we woke up we were 5 minutes from the terminal in Viña del Mar.

My first impression of the city was crowded! Talk about building right on top of each other, the houses were side by side and a wide variety of colors. Made for an interesting view as we pulled inter the terminal. Then it was right to finding a taxi and the hostel. Thankfully that didn't take long. I certainly wasn't feeling well and I know some of the others weren't either. After a night of basically no sleep and a busy day walking all around Santiago we were exhausted. We checked into the hostel without issue and settled into our rooms before saying hellos all around to the other half of our program that was also in Chile for the weekend. Somehow it had worked out that a ton of people had picked Chile for the weekend getaway and we had all booked rooms in the same hostel. It was certainly going to be a fun weekend. After we'd settled in a bit and looked around people started to talk about dinner and we picked a pizza place a few blocks away with good reviews. Part of the group went ahead and I waited on a few people to get back from the beach. Then we headed to the restaurant as well and met up with everyone else. The menu was certainly interesting and had lots of crazy names for the pizza. I don't remember what we ordered, but it was delicious! After dinner we headed back to the hostel and although some people stayed up to talk or go to local bars, I was exhausted and headed to bed.

The next morning I woke up and went down to the usual hostel breakfast of bread and jam. There was also REALLY delicious juice that was pineapple and papaya! I talked to Lisa while we ate and planned the day. Although Lisa and Sarah had not traveling to Chile with us, they wanted to all hang out together, so we all made plans to head to a beach north of Viña. The boys still weren't up, and I was really hesitant to wake them since Eric for sure hadn't felt well last night. Sarah however was anxious for us to be on our way and woke them up with no hesitation. Then we spent about half an hour waiting on them to get ready. Sarah had planned everything and we left the hostel on our way to the beach. Have I mentioned how impressive transportation is here? Cause this was certainly an example. We caught a bus at the local stop (with some help from the drivers), paid a small fee and took the 2 hour ride to a beac that had been described as one of the more beautiful in Chile. I still wasn't feeling well and slept most of the way. When we finally arrived, Deven and I looked at each other as we climbed out of the bus and into the cold ocean wind... Both of us felt the same way, "I wish I hadn't come." Really the beach would've been fine 5 minutes from the hostel! The wind was super cold and even being wrapped up in a sweatshirt I was cold. We headed into the snack bar and looked around for something to eat (now that it was nearly 1pm and definitely lunch time). The snack shack looked like it hadn't been stocked in months and would shortly be closing down. I was super skeptical of ordering lunch, let alone a burger or empanadas, but the hunger won over and I eventually settled on a ham and cheese empanada. They are SO different in Chile! Much larger and flakier than in Argentina. I was quite impressed actually and enjoyed it alongside a grape soda (which I hadn't had in forever). After lunch Deven and I sat inside for a bit pondering what to do for the afternoon... It seemed WAY too cold to go sit on the beach, but that's where everyone else was, so we decided to give it a try. Stepping onto the sand I finally understood how they were sitting on the beach in suites. Where the air was cold, and felt even colder with the wind, the sand was warm on my feet. In hardly any time I was covered in sun block and happily lying on the sand, basking in the sun. My headache had dissipated a bit with food and the sun felt great. We sat there for nearly 2 hours just enjoying and then decided to go in search of ice cream. Unfortunately the shop wasn't open, so it was back to the snack shack. We sat on the back deck enjoying the cool ice cream and Deven and I decided we were ready to head back. Eric had wandered off and we had no idea where he was and Sarah was on a run. Lisa, however, was happy to stay, so we didn't feel bad about heading for the bus. While we were waiting Eric came back and decided he would head back with Whitney, Deven, and I. We caught the next bus back to Viña and after about 2 hours arrived back in the city. However, the bus apparently didn't drop us off where we got picked up. As soon as we entered the city we found ourselves unceremoniously kicked off the bus and onto a very unfamiliar street. Shops were beginning to close up even though it was about 7pm and we had no idea where we were. We randomly picked a direction and headed out to find someone we could ask for directions. All of a sudden, Eric stopped and pointed, "Its the giant Coca Cola sign!" We'd noticed this flashing sign atop a skyscraper when we came in yesterday and it was a great landmark for where our hotel was! Perfect! After 15 more minutes of walking we found our way to the main-street beneath our hotel. Eric and Whitney decided to tour the shops for a bit but Deven wanted to work on hw and I wasn't feeling well, so we headed back to the hostel. I still wasn't sure what was going on, but I had just felt weird all day. There is no other way to describe it than just weird. We got back to the hostel and I took a FREEZING cold shower before heading to the beach with Caroline. I figured I should at least see the Viña beach and going at sunset could be fun! We watched the sky change colors and attempted to speak in spanish rather than english. Keeping with the touristy theme of the weekend I hadn't done much spanish speaking at all. Oops... When we got back to the hostel people were talking about what to do for dinner. We already had plans though! Another DU friend, Carlie Field (mutual friend of Eric and I) was studying in Chile and had agreed to meet us for dinner and take us out to see the town after. We had a good dinner at a nondescript restaurant and tried the local drink (a pisco sour) for dessert. It was pretty good, but tasted a lot like tequila. We had a great time catching up and hearing about all her adventures. She invited us out to go clubbing with here and some of her friends, but since I was still feeling strange and Deven had to get up early to leave we declined. Whitney and Eric on the other hand were all about going. They walked us nearly back to the hostel and then we split our separate ways. When I got back, everyone and their sister was getting ready to go out. All the girls had had their makeup done (courtesy of 2 girls staying there) and everyone was chilling outside waiting to leave. I mean the ENTIRE hostel was going out together! Turns out they were all going to the same place as Carlie too. I was kinda bummed not to go, but sometimes decisions have to be made. And I was not about to get sick before my parents come. So I went to bed and didn't even hear everyone come back. Even though they apparently had the light on and were talking etc.

Sunday morning we woke up fairly early and had breakfast as usual. Everyone else was a little slower getting out of bed (owing to the late night they had enjoyed). Eventually we all gathered with our stuff. We had to checkout before heading out for the day, but could leave our things in a secure shed until we got back. Unfortunately, we had not known nor accounted for the fact that Chile charges an outrageous 20% tax if you pay for the hostel in local currency. As a result, Sarah and I took a cab to the mall to draw out money and directly change it into US Dollars to pay for the hostel. What a mess! Luckily we had a really sweet cab driver on the way there who helped us out and we somehow managed to time the whole thing so that he was still there when we were done and could take us back. It took about 45 minutes out of our day, but eventually it all worked out fine. Then we were off the the subway station! Today was our day to spend in Valparaíso (aka Valpo) which is a 10 minute subway ride from Viña. We bought our card and we off! It really reminded me of being in Denmark to be honest. The train looked exactly the same and was automated for the different stops etc. We got off at the harbor and enjoyed walking around the artisan marked for a bit. Then with Sarah in the lead (she'd planned everything again) we began our search for a certain outdoor elevator. The hills in Valpo are so steep and houses are so packed together that they have built outdoor elevators or cable cars to take people up the hills. We eventually found the one we were looking for and took it to the top to look around. There was another small market, so we looked through that as well and then just began wandering the streets before heading back down the hill via the road. At the bottom we located a local bus that could take us to the market. Apparently this was where we would be searching for lunch. I wasn't too keen on the idea, but apparently the upstairs restaurants had gotten good reviews and so off we went. A lovely lady on the bus showed us where to get off and we walked into the fresh market and upstairs. At the top of the stairs we encountered a nice man who offered us a menu to look at and invited us into the restaurant. Not wanting to pick the first one we saw, we told him we'd think about it. He politely accepted, but told us to 'be careful of the climate' in the center. It made me uneasy, but I wasn't sure what he was talking about. We soon found out! In the center of the upstairs are a variety of restaurants fiercely fighting for your money and attention. Waiters come right up to you with menus and try to seat you if you even take a look or say a word. It was quite overwhelming and I was not a happy camper. I felt like a frantic mother trying to keep track of all her children! Eventually we had all had enough and decided to go back to the first restaurant. It seemed to have a nicer atmosphere and was on the outside where we could look out the windows. I was SUPER excited to have some seafood for lunch. Chile is known for it, so it seemed to be something we should experience before leaving. I enjoyed a wonderful white fish with a shrimp cream sauce on top. It was delicious! Then we were off to see Pablo Neruda's house. Since there wasn't time to go to Isla Negra, we elected his house in Valpo and started out. Unfortunately the elevator we would've used was broken...so we walked. The entire way. It took us more than an hour and I was exhausted by the time we got to the top. It was a beautiful view. The tour was decent and set up with the wands that have all the information stored by number and room. so as you walked around you selected the numbers to hear the information that matched the location. Once finished we sat outside enjoying the weather before heading back down the hill. At this point I REALLY wasn't feeling good, but there wasn't much I could do about it.

Once back in Viña I stopped at a local bakery to buy some crackers for the bus and they had just put fresh bread out! I bought that instead and managed to eat all of it by the time we got back to the hostel...guess it tasted good! We had a bit of time to kill, so we relaxed on the steps before grabbing our stuff, saying our goodbyes and heading to the bus station. Then, before we knew it we were on our way home. Customs went without issue at some awful hour of the morning and exhausted I arrived back to the apartment shortly after 7 on Monday morning. I crashed into bed for a few more hours of sleep and was out in a flash, regardless of the fact that my parents would be arriving in hours.

There is one thing that I want to mention about this crazy weekend: the transportation!!! Its phenomenal and the US needs to take notice. In my 3 days in Chile I used the following methods of public transit: subway, local bus system, distance bus system (something similar to greyhound), taxi, and routed taxis (with scheduled loops and set fairs). That's 5 different types in 3 days!!! We need to do something about the transportation in the US! I'm telling you, if we had busses like they do here, I'd be doing a lot more traveling within the country! Anywho, that's my soapbox for this post. :)

I hope everyone is doing well and getting excited about the holidays! I can't tell you how excited I am to see everyone and catch up over break. In the next addition look for details from my family's visit and the end of finals!!!

All my love!